Monday, 23 April 2007

Jocks and Geordies

Saturday dawned with a mild headache from a couple (yes, literally!) of glasses of wine the night before, so I packed my book as well as my climbing shoes, thinking that while the others would be climbing hard stuff, I would find a comfortable corner for a snooze and a read. We headed for Kyloe In, reasoning that if it were to rain (which was looking distinctly possible, and then became an actuality) we and the rock would be mostly dry under the trees.

Kyloe-in-the-Woods. Can you see the fairies?

In the end, the light drizzle didn't last very long. Nor did my ideas of curling up with my book. With Jerome's encouragement I had a shot at Jocks and Geordies (Font 6c/V5). The sit-start was ruled out immediately given that I can haul myself up, but can't then let go to make the move! But from standing, it seemed like a different proposition. After a couple of attempts, I found myself standing on tippytoes, right hand on the undercut, and left hand reaching up, apparently as far as it would go but still about a foot away from the top hold. So I fell off.
Still about a foot away... oh to be taller.

Feeling very pleased with myself at that alone, I wandered off to have another shot at Red Rum (Font 6b/V3 6a), but that wasn't happening. I tootled along to the other end and took a bit of time to remind myself of all the delicate, crimpy (and sharp!) moves on the Crucifix Traverse (V3 6a). Having done it right to left, I looked at the guide to find it's graded left to right. And that was much harder! So I did the Undercut Traverse (V4 6a) next to it instead.

Not satisfied with my earlier attempts, I went back to Jocks and Geordies, with greater but not complete success. The best attempt reached the tiny crimp below the lip, but I didn't manage to hold it long enough to slap my right hand up. Then I ran out of skin. Again.
How close? It's about 3mm above my left hand...

My right hand is aiming for the chalked up ledge

No more skin, so we went home. I'm hoping for good weather next weekend and practising the moves in my sleep to make sure I don't forget them...

1 comment:

Ian said...

<Chuckle /> Practicing in your sleep.... I can just picture you lying in bed, then throwing yourself up, and clouting your head on the headboard (or wall, or whatever is at the head of your bed...)